Frequently Asked Questions

Every home and project is a little different, so the honest answer is "it depends". I'd rather give you a real number, and the best way to get an exact number is a quick quote. I'll walk through your space and give you a clear price before any work starts.

MDF (medium-density fiberboard) is a manufactured material. I generally discourage MDF as it doesn't do well with moisture. Something as innocent as mopping can potentially ruin MDF trim. Real wood (poplar, oak, pine, etc...) holds up better and depending on the quality can even be stained. Finger-jointed pine is our most commonly used material. It is a manufactured product made of short pieces of pine that are interlocked together in a finger-jointed pattern. This creates straight pieces that are made up of solid wood but are always paint grade due to the many seams. Finger-jointed pine is a cost effective, smooth, durable product. I'll walk you through which makes sense for your specific room and budget — there's no one-size-fits-all answer here.

I typically install trim using either unprimed or pre-primed materials. For most installations, I set my nails so they do not stick out, and cover nail holes with wood filler. I give it a light sanding and it's ready for paint. If you're painting yourself, remember that it may take multiple coats of paint to cover nail holes/wood filler. If you're planning to hire a painter, they often prefer to caulk and fill nail holes themselves.

A single room of baseboard or casing is often a one-day job depending on level of finish requested and amount of trim to be removed prior to starting work. Larger projects — a full room of crown molding, multiple rooms, or a built-in — can run a few days depending on scope. I'll give you a realistic timeline as part of your quote, so you know what to expect before I start.

Because trim work is cosmetic and sits on the surface of a wall, it typically isn't as messy as projects where walls or flooring are removed. I take great care to cover floors, sweep, and vacuum as needed. I believe that a tidy environment is a safe and productive one, and treat each home as though it were my own.

Yes. Many homes in the Roanoke area have some settling or unevenness, especially older ones. Part of doing this work well is knowing when to scribe trim to fit the actual conditions of your home rather than hoping everything is perfectly square. It's one of the things that separates a clean finish from a sloppy one.

I focus on installation and leave trim paint-ready — caulked (if requested), nails set, and nail holes filled. I find that most painters prefer caulking trim themselves. Some even prefer to handle the wood filler themselves. If you already have a painter, I can check with them to see what level of finish they prefer.

In most cases, yes. I'll look at your existing profile and match it as closely as possible, even if it's an older or less common style. If an exact match isn't available, I'll walk you through the closest options before I start.

Yes, I do. Reach out with a few details about your project and I'll get back to you as soon as possible. I prefer to walk through projects in person prior to proving a quote. I would rather give an accurate number than guess over the phone. Each quote is clearly laid out. There's no pressure and no obligation.

I am based in Roanoke City, and serve the Roanoke Valley and surrounding areas. If you're not sure whether your location is covered, just ask — I'm generally flexible for the right project.

I'm fully insured.

Yes, I am always looking to connect with general contractors who are looking for a trim subcontractor.